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Destination Traveller

Big trip · expedition

The Galápagos and Ecuador

Sea lions on the beach, giant tortoises in the highlands and blue-footed boobies dancing a metre away. Combine a week's cruise in the Galápagos with colonial Quito and a night in the cloud forest.

The trip

The Galápagos Islands sit almost 1,000km off the coast of Ecuador, and their animals have never learned to fear people. The best way to see them is on a small ship of 100 guests or fewer, moving between islands by night and landing each day with naturalist guides. Ecuador's capital, Quito, and the cloud forest of Mashpi make a rich prelude.

The route

Fly to Quito, whose historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and spend two nights adjusting to the altitude. Drive into the cloud forest for two nights at Mashpi, then fly to the islands for a seven-night cruise. Fly back to the mainland for a final night in Guayaquil or Quito.

Day by day

Island itineraries alternate between eastern, western and northern routes. Each is excellent; your advisor will match the route to the wildlife you most want to see.

  1. Days 1-2

    Quito

    Arrive and rest. The gilded La Compañía church, the colonial squares and dinner overlooking the city's domes.

    Stay Hotel in Quito

    Travel Airport transfer, about 45 minutes

  2. Days 3-4

    Mashpi cloud forest

    Hummingbirds, orchids and waterfalls, the Dragonfly cable car through the canopy and night walks with the lodge's biologists.

    Stay Mashpi Lodge

    Travel Drive, about 3 hours 30 minutes

  3. Day 5

    Galápagos

    Return to Quito, fly to Baltra or San Cristóbal and board the ship. First landing in the afternoon.

    Stay Expedition ship

    Travel Flight, about 3 hours via Guayaquil

  4. Days 6-11

    The islands

    Daily landings and snorkelling: giant tortoises in the Santa Cruz highlands, marine iguanas, flamingos, frigatebirds, sea lions and, with luck, penguins and hammerheads.

    Stay Expedition ship

    Travel Sailing between islands overnight

  5. Day 12

    Guayaquil and home

    Disembark, fly to the mainland and connect home, or stay a night in Guayaquil.

    Stay Hotel or overnight flight

    Travel Flight, about 2 hours

When to go

The Galápagos are a year-round destination. December to May is warm, with calm seas, green islands and the best snorkelling. June to November brings cooler water, more marine life and courtship displays, but rougher seas. Quito is spring-like all year.

Where to stay

Most nights are aboard ship, but Quito, the cloud forest and the islands themselves all have excellent places to stay. Price bands are a typical night for two sharing; expect more at peak dates.

Mashpi Lodge's glass façade among tree ferns at dusk

Featured stay

Mashpi Lodge

Mashpi Reserve, near Quito, Ecuador

££££

Travellers who want a luxurious, guided immersion in the cloud forest before or after the Galápagos.

Mashpi Lodge is a striking glass-and-steel lodge set in its own private reserve of Chocó cloud forest, about three hours from Quito. Up to 400 bird species, glass frogs and waterfalls are on the doorstep, explored with resident guides and biologists, by trail, aerial gondola and sky bike.

Rooms
Wayra rooms, Yaku Suites and a solo Wawa room
Food
Ecuadorian cuisine, all meals included
Best time to go
All year; slightly drier June to November
A walkway through tropical plants to the lodgeThe lodge's terraces glowing among the forestThe spa building beside giant ferns
Read our full review →

£Under £200 a night

  • Hotel Patio Andaluz, Quito

    A colonial mansion on the main street of the historic centre.

  • Hotel Carlota, Quito

    A small, stylish boutique hotel in the historic centre.

  • Hotel Silberstein, Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz

    Simple and friendly, for a night or two on land.

£££200–400 a night

  • JW Marriott Hotel Quito, Quito

    Comfortable, modern and a good base after long flights.

  • Hotel Boutique Mansión del Río, Guayaquil

    An elegant 1920s mansion on the riverfront.

  • Finch Bay Galapagos Hotel, Santa Cruz

    On a quiet beach, reached by water taxi from Puerto Ayora.

££££400–800 a night

  • Casa Gangotena, Quito

    A restored mansion on Plaza San Francisco, Quito's finest hotel.

  • Galápagos Safari Camp, Santa Cruz

    Luxury tents in the highlands, with tortoises on the doorstep.

  • Pikaia Lodge, Santa Cruz

    A hilltop eco-lodge built on an extinct volcano.

£££££800+ a night

  • Mashpi LodgeReviewed, Mashpi cloud forest

    A glass-walled lodge in a private reserve, with its own scientists.

  • Silver Origin (Silversea), Galápagos

    All-suite, all-inclusive and built for the islands. See Silversea.

  • Celebrity Flora, Galápagos

    A sleek 100-guest ship with excellent naturalists. See Celebrity.

Prefer a different style of stay? Our advisors can suggest more.

What it costs

Allow from about £9,500 per person for 12 days with a seven-night cruise on a good ship, Mashpi and Quito hotels and internal flights, excluding international flights. The national park entry fee of US$200 and transit card of US$20 are payable separately.

Pace and fitness

Landings are either dry, onto rocks or a jetty, or wet, wading ashore from a Zodiac. Walking trails are short but often over uneven lava rock. Snorkelling is optional and wetsuits are provided. Quito sits at 2,850m, so take the first day slowly.

How to book

Our advisors plan this trip end to end: flights, hotels, guides and the small details that make the days easy. Tell us your dates and the style of stay you like, and we will build it around you. Speak to an advisor.

Questions

Is a cruise better than staying on land?

For a first visit, yes. Ships reach the remote islands and visitor sites that day boats cannot.

How much is the Galápagos entry fee?

US$200 per person for the national park and US$20 for the transit control card. Your advisor will tell you how and when to pay.

Do I need to snorkel?

No, but it is a highlight. Sea lions, turtles and rays often swim right up to you.

How bad is the altitude in Quito?

Most people feel only mild breathlessness. Rest on the first day, drink water and go easy on alcohol.

The Sunday Postcard

One considered email each week: a trip, a hotel and a route worth your time.