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Destination Traveller

Big trip · expedition

An Amazon River Cruise in Peru

A week deep in the Peruvian Amazon aboard a small luxury river ship, with pink river dolphins, macaws and monkeys by day and starry silence by night. Bookend it with Lima, one of the best places to eat in the world.

The trip

The upper Amazon around Iquitos is one of the most biodiverse places on earth, and the best way to see it is from a small expedition ship. Each day you head out in skiffs along blackwater channels into the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve with expert naturalist guides, then return to air-conditioned suites with floor-to-ceiling windows and cooking that draws on Amazon ingredients.

The route

Fly to Lima and spend two nights eating your way around Miraflores and Barranco. Fly on to Iquitos, a river city reachable only by air or boat, and board your ship for seven nights on the Amazon, Marañón and Ucayali rivers. Return to Lima for a final night before flying home. Ten days covers it; add Machu Picchu before or after if you have time (see our Peru trip).

Day by day

Ships run three-, four- and seven-night cruises. We recommend seven: the deeper reaches of the reserve are where the wildlife is richest.

  1. Days 1-2

    Lima

    Arrive and recover. The clifftop Malecón in Miraflores, the Larco Museum's pre-Columbian gold and a long lunch at one of the city's celebrated restaurants.

    Stay Hotel in Lima

    Travel Airport transfer, 30 to 60 minutes

  2. Day 3

    Iquitos

    Fly over the Andes to Iquitos, lunch in town and board the ship by mid-afternoon. First skiff outing at dusk.

    Stay River ship

    Travel Flight from Lima, about 1 hour 45 minutes

  3. Days 4-9

    Pacaya-Samiria and the upper Amazon

    Daily skiff and kayak trips for pink and grey river dolphins, sloths, monkeys and hundreds of bird species; rainforest walks, piranha fishing, a visit to a riverside village and nights on deck under the stars.

    Stay River ship

    Travel Cruising by night and early morning

  4. Day 10

    Iquitos to Lima

    Disembark after breakfast, fly back to Lima and connect to your flight home, or stay on for Cusco and Machu Picchu.

    Stay Overnight flight or Lima hotel

    Travel Flight, about 1 hour 45 minutes

When to go

The Amazon is worth visiting all year, but it changes. From December to May, high water lets skiffs glide deep into the flooded forest, closer to monkeys and birds in the canopy. From June to November, lower water reveals beaches and trails, and fishing and bird watching are excellent. It is always hot and humid, with showers most days.

Where to stay

Your week on the river is on the ship itself; the hotel choice is in Lima and Iquitos. The river ships are small, with 20 to 30 cabins. Price bands are a typical night for two sharing; expect more at peak dates.

The white Belle Époque façade of Hotel B in Barranco

Featured stay

Hotel B

Barranco, Lima, Peru

£££

Travellers who want a stylish, intimate base in Lima with great food and art.

Hotel B is the most characterful place to stay in Lima: a white Belle Époque mansion in the bohemian Barranco district, restored as a boutique hotel with more than 300 works of art, a library, a leafy patio and a rooftop terrace. It is Lima's only Relais & Châteaux hotel, and the ideal base for the city's celebrated food scene.

Rooms
Junior suites and suites in a 1914 mansion and new wing
Food
Peruvian restaurant; afternoon tea included
Best time to go
All year; sunniest December to April
Hotel B's mansion entrance at duskSunloungers and a table on the rooftop terraceA white bedroom with arched doors
Read our full review →

£Under £200 a night

  • Casa Andina Select Miraflores, Lima

    Reliable, central and good value in Miraflores.

  • Tierra Viva Miraflores Larco, Lima

    Simple and comfortable, a short walk from the clifftops.

  • Hotel El Dorado Plaza, Iquitos

    On the main square, useful for a night before or after the cruise.

£££200–400 a night

  • Casa República Barranco, Lima

    A beautifully restored mansion in the bohemian Barranco district.

  • Atemporal, Lima

    A small, elegant townhouse hotel in Miraflores.

  • The Westin Lima, Lima

    Spacious rooms and a good spa in San Isidro.

££££400–800 a night

  • Miraflores Park, A Belmond Hotel, Lima

    Ocean views from a rooftop pool on the clifftop.

  • Country Club Lima Hotel, Lima

    A grand 1920s hotel with a fine art collection, overlooking the golf course.

  • Hotel BReviewed, Lima

    A Relais & Châteaux art hotel in a Belle Époque mansion in Barranco.

£££££800+ a night

  • Aqua Nera, Peruvian Amazon

    Twenty suites with huge windows and the most polished service on the river.

  • Delfin III, Peruvian Amazon

    A Relais & Châteaux river ship with private-terrace suites.

  • Aria Amazon, Peruvian Amazon

    Sister ship to Aqua Nera, with sixteen suites and excellent guides.

Prefer a different style of stay? Our advisors can suggest more.

What it costs

Allow from about £8,000 per person for 10 days with a seven-night luxury cruise, Lima hotels and internal flights, excluding international flights. Cruises are all-inclusive of meals, guided excursions and most drinks; shorter cruises bring the price down.

Pace and fitness

Excursions are by small boat, with steps down into the skiff and some short, muddy forest walks. Kayaking is optional. Crew help at every step, and much of the wildlife watching is done seated in the skiff.

How to book

Our advisors plan this trip end to end: flights, hotels, guides and the small details that make the days easy. Tell us your dates and the style of stay you like, and we will build it around you. Speak to an advisor.

Questions

Will I see pink river dolphins?

Almost certainly. They are common in the reserve's rivers and often surface beside the skiffs.

Do I need malaria tablets or vaccinations?

Iquitos is a malaria area and yellow fever vaccination is recommended. Speak to a travel clinic six to eight weeks before you go.

Is it very hot?

Yes, typically low 30s Celsius and humid. Ships are air-conditioned, and outings are timed for the cooler mornings and late afternoons.

Can I combine it with Machu Picchu?

Easily. Fly Iquitos to Lima to Cusco and add five or six days in the Sacred Valley and Cusco.

The Sunday Postcard

One considered email each week: a trip, a hotel and a route worth your time.