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An Antarctica Expedition Cruise

The White Continent: ten days at sea among icebergs the size of cathedrals, colonies of curious penguins and whales feeding beside the ship. An Antarctic voyage is the journey people talk about for the rest of their lives.

The trip

Almost every Antarctic voyage leaves from Ushuaia, at the tip of Argentina, and crosses the Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula. Once there, small expedition ships make two landings or Zodiac cruises a day, weather permitting: gentoo and chinstrap penguin colonies, seals on the floes, humpback whales and glaciers calving into still bays. Evenings bring talks from the ship's naturalists and dinner with the light still in the sky.

The route

Fly to Buenos Aires for two nights to recover from the journey, then on to Ushuaia to board. The voyage itself is ten or eleven nights: two days crossing the Drake each way and five or six days exploring the peninsula and the South Shetland Islands. If the Drake worries you, fly-cruise departures from Punta Arenas cross by air to King George Island instead.

Day by day

Expedition plans are set each morning by the captain and expedition leader according to ice and weather; the outline below is typical.

  1. Days 1-2

    Buenos Aires

    Arrive and recover. Recoleta, San Telmo's antiques, the Teatro Colón and a steak dinner with a good Malbec.

    Stay Hotel in Buenos Aires

    Travel Airport transfer, about 45 minutes

  2. Day 3

    Ushuaia

    Charter or scheduled flight to Ushuaia, time to see the Beagle Channel, then board the ship in the late afternoon and sail at dusk.

    Stay Expedition ship

    Travel Flight, about 3 hours 30 minutes

  3. Days 4-5

    Drake Passage

    Two days at sea with lectures on wildlife, history and ice, albatrosses gliding alongside and your first icebergs.

    Stay Expedition ship

    Travel At sea

  4. Days 6-10

    Antarctic Peninsula

    Landings and Zodiac cruises at places such as Paradise Bay, Neko Harbour, Port Lockroy and the Lemaire Channel: penguins, seals, whales and towering glaciers.

    Stay Expedition ship

    Travel Cruising between landing sites

  5. Days 11-12

    Drake Passage and Ushuaia

    Return crossing, a farewell dinner, and arrival in Ushuaia on the morning of day 13 for flights home via Buenos Aires.

    Stay Expedition ship

    Travel At sea, then flights home

When to go

The season runs from November to March. November brings pristine snow and penguins courting; December and January have the longest days, nearly 20 hours of light, and chicks hatching; February and March are best for whales. Every month is spectacular.

Where to stay

On board, choose between expedition ships carrying 100 to 200 guests; smaller ships land everyone at once. Before and after, stay in Buenos Aires and Ushuaia. Price bands are a typical night for two sharing; expect more at peak dates.

The Alvear Palace Hotel lit up on Avenida Alvear at night

Featured stay

Alvear Palace Hotel

Recoleta, Buenos Aires, Argentina

£££

Travellers who want classic grand-hotel style in Buenos Aires before heading to Patagonia or Antarctica.

The Alvear Palace is Buenos Aires' grand hotel: gilded, chandeliered and quietly impeccable, on the city's most elegant avenue in Recoleta. It has welcomed travellers since 1932 and remains the classic place to recover from the long flight before heading south to Ushuaia and Antarctica.

Rooms
207 rooms and suites, French style; butler service
Food
L'Orangerie, Lobby Bar and Alvear Roof Bar
Best time to go
October to May
A classic French-style bedroom with a chandelierA suite sitting room with orchids and gilt mirrorsThe breakfast buffet at L'Orangerie
Read our full review →

£Under £200 a night

  • Hotel Albatros, Ushuaia

    On the waterfront, a few minutes' walk from the port.

  • Mil810 Ushuaia Hotel, Ushuaia

    Small and friendly, with every room facing the Beagle Channel.

  • Hotel Patios de San Telmo, Buenos Aires

    A converted colonial house in the city's historic tango district.

£££200–400 a night

  • Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa, Ushuaia

    On a hillside nature reserve with views over the town and channel.

  • Los Cauquenes Resort & Spa, Ushuaia

    Quiet, on the shore of the Beagle Channel outside town.

  • Legado Mítico, Buenos Aires

    A characterful boutique hotel in Palermo.

££££400–800 a night

  • Alvear Palace HotelReviewed, Buenos Aires

    The city's grand dame, with butler service and a famous afternoon tea.

  • Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires

    A restored palace and garden in Recoleta.

  • Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires

    A Belle Époque mansion and modern tower with excellent service.

£££££800+ a night

  • Silver Endeavour (Silversea), Antarctic Peninsula

    All-suite, all-inclusive, with butlers and polar-class comfort. See Silversea.

  • Le Commandant Charcot (Ponant), Antarctic Peninsula

    A luxury icebreaker for deeper polar voyages. See Ponant.

  • Scenic Eclipse, Antarctic Peninsula

    A discovery yacht with its own helicopters and submarine.

Prefer a different style of stay? Our advisors can suggest more.

What it costs

Allow from about £9,000 per person for a good expedition ship in a balcony cabin, with hotels and flights to Ushuaia, excluding international flights. Ultra-luxury ships and suites run to £20,000 or more. Early-booking offers can be generous, so book a year or more ahead.

Pace and fitness

You need to step in and out of Zodiac boats with crew helping and walk on snow, rocks and shingle, sometimes uphill. Ships provide waterproof boots and usually a parka. The Drake can be rough; modern stabilisers help, and sea-sickness remedies work well for most people.

How to book

Our advisors plan this trip end to end: flights, hotels, guides and the small details that make the days easy. Tell us your dates and the style of stay you like, and we will build it around you. Speak to an advisor. For more on the ships, see HX Hurtigruten Expeditions and our expedition cruise pages.

Questions

How rough is the Drake Passage?

It varies from glassy calm to big swells. Most crossings are somewhere in between, and fly-cruise options avoid it altogether.

Will I actually set foot on Antarctica?

Yes. Ships under IAATO rules make landings with up to 100 people ashore at a time, usually twice a day when weather allows.

What should I pack?

Layers, thermal base layers, waterproof trousers, gloves, a warm hat and sunglasses. The ship usually provides the parka and boots.

Do I need to be very fit?

No, but you must be able to manage Zodiac transfers and uneven ground. Ships carry a doctor and ask for a medical form before you travel.

The Sunday Postcard

One considered email each week: a trip, a hotel and a route worth your time.