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Big trip · expedition

Patagonia: Torres del Paine and the Fjords

Granite towers, turquoise lakes, condors overhead and a glacier that cracks and roars. Two weeks at the end of the world, finishing with a small-ship voyage through the fjords of Tierra del Fuego.

The trip

Patagonia is one of the last great wildernesses, and Torres del Paine its masterpiece. The best lodges here are all-inclusive, with guides who tailor daily excursions by foot, horse or vehicle to your energy and the weather. Add the Perito Moreno glacier across the border and a fjord cruise round Cape Horn and you have an unforgettable journey.

The route

Fly to Santiago for two nights, then south to Punta Arenas and on to Torres del Paine for four nights. Cross into Argentina for the Perito Moreno glacier at El Calafate, fly to Ushuaia, and board a small expedition ship for four nights through the fjords to Cape Horn and Punta Arenas. Fly back to Santiago and home.

Day by day

Distances are long, so the route uses internal flights and a ship rather than long drives.

  1. Days 1-2

    Santiago

    Arrive and recover. The Lastarria district, a day in the Casablanca valley vineyards and Chilean seafood.

    Stay Hotel in Santiago

    Travel Airport transfer, about 30 minutes

  2. Days 3-6

    Torres del Paine

    Guided excursions to the base of the towers, Lake Grey and its icebergs, the Salto Grande waterfall and guanaco and puma tracking.

    Stay Lodge in Torres del Paine

    Travel Flight to Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales, then drive

  3. Days 7-8

    El Calafate

    Walkways and a boat trip to the face of the Perito Moreno glacier, and estancia life on the steppe.

    Stay Hotel in El Calafate

    Travel Drive across the border, about 5 hours

  4. Day 9

    Ushuaia

    Fly to the world's southernmost city and walk the Beagle Channel waterfront.

    Stay Hotel in Ushuaia

    Travel Flight, about 1 hour 20 minutes

  5. Days 10-13

    Tierra del Fuego fjords

    Cape Horn, weather permitting, Glacier Alley, Wulaia Bay and Magdalena Island's penguins aboard a small expedition ship.

    Stay Expedition ship

    Travel Four nights at sea to Punta Arenas

  6. Day 14

    Punta Arenas and home

    Disembark, fly to Santiago and connect home.

    Stay Overnight flight

    Travel Flight, about 3 hours 30 minutes

When to go

October to April is the season. November and March are quieter and often calmer; December to February has the longest days and warmest weather but more visitors and more wind. Fjord cruises run from September to April.

Where to stay

In Torres del Paine, the all-inclusive lodges include guided excursions, which makes them better value than they first appear. Price bands are a typical night for two sharing; expect more at peak dates.

Sunrise on the Torres del Paine peaks above the villas of Awasi Patagonia

Featured stay

Awasi Patagonia

Torres del Paine, Chile

££££

Couples and active travellers who want Torres del Paine without the crowds, at their own pace, on a stay of four nights or more.

Awasi Patagonia is the trip of a lifetime made private. Set within 15,000 private acres bordering Torres del Paine, its 14 villas each come with an outdoor hot tub, a view of the granite towers and, best of all, your own guide and 4x4 for the whole stay.

Outdoor wooden hot tub on a villa deck overlooking grassland and mountains, Awasi PatagoniaPrivate 4x4 crossing a shallow river against a mountain backdrop, Awasi PatagoniaWood-panelled villa sitting area with glass doors to a terrace, Awasi Patagonia
Read our full review →

£Under £200 a night

  • Hotel Cumbres Lastarria, Santiago

    Comfortable and modern in the city's best neighbourhood for walking.

  • Hotel Kosten Aike, El Calafate

    Central, friendly and good value.

  • Hotel Albatros, Ushuaia

    On the waterfront, near the port.

£££200–400 a night

  • Hotel Magnolia, Santiago

    A stylish boutique hotel in a 1920s mansion.

  • Hotel Xelena, El Calafate

    Lake views and a spa on the edge of town.

  • Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa, Ushuaia

    On a hillside reserve above the channel.

££££400–800 a night

  • EOLO, El Calafate

    A Relais & Châteaux lodge alone on the steppe.

  • Hotel Las Torres Patagonia, Torres del Paine

    All-inclusive, at the foot of the trail to the towers.

  • The Singular Patagonia, Puerto Bories

    A restored cold-storage plant on the fjord, now a striking hotel.

£££££800+ a night

  • Explora Patagonia, Torres del Paine

    All-inclusive, beside a waterfall with the Paine Massif across the lake.

  • Tierra Patagonia, Torres del Paine

    A curving wooden lodge on Lake Sarmiento.

  • Awasi PatagoniaReviewed, Torres del Paine

    Private villas, each with its own guide and vehicle.

Prefer a different style of stay? Our advisors can suggest more.

What it costs

Allow from about £8,500 per person for 14 days with an all-inclusive lodge in Torres del Paine, the fjord cruise and internal flights, excluding international flights. With top lodges throughout, expect £15,000 or more.

Pace and fitness

Lodge excursions range from easy walks and drives to full-day hikes, so you choose your level. Wind can be fierce, and paths are rough. The cruise uses Zodiacs for landings.

How to book

Our advisors plan this trip end to end: flights, hotels, guides and the small details that make the days easy. Tell us your dates and the style of stay you like, and we will build it around you. Speak to an advisor.

Questions

How windy is Patagonia?

Very, especially from December to February. Good layers and a windproof jacket are essential.

Do I have to hike?

No. Lodges offer gentle walks, drives and boat trips as well as long hikes.

Can I combine this with Antarctica?

Yes. Ushuaia and Punta Arenas are the main gateways; see our Antarctica trip.

Will I see pumas?

Sightings have become more common in Torres del Paine with specialist trackers, but they are never guaranteed.

The Sunday Postcard

One considered email each week: a trip, a hotel and a route worth your time.