Laguna Lodge, Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

Where it is

You will find the lodge beside the village of Santa Cruz La Laguna, a short boat hop across the water from Panajachel, and the lodge will collect you; Panajachel is about two and a half hours by road from Antigua. Behind the lodge is one of the last areas of protected forest around the lake.

The lake fills a vast volcanic caldera at around 1,560 metres, beneath San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán. Boats link the villages: San Juan for weaving cooperatives, Santiago Atitlán for its market and traditions, San Marcos for yoga.

Suites

The suites are few, and every one has a balcony looking over the lake to the volcano trio. Thatched roofs, hand-carved furniture, hand-sewn textiles and local crafts give them warmth and a strong sense of place.

Food and the rest

The infinity pool, with its deck over the lake, is the place to be at sunset. Breakfast and a four-course vegetarian dinner are included, served in the lodge's restaurant, the only all-vegetarian hotel restaurant on the lake. Massages can be booked, guided walks explore the forest reserve full of hummingbirds, and the team arranges boat trips, village visits and hikes. The lodge runs on solar power and watches its water and energy use closely.

The moment

Dawn on your balcony, the lake glassy and silent and the three volcanoes sharp against a pink sky, before the afternoon wind ruffles the water.

Why we chose it

Laguna Lodge offers one of the world's great views, real sustainability and genuine calm, with dinner included, at a gentle price. Arrival is by boat, and stone paths and steps wind through the gardens, part of the adventure.

For more lakes-and-mountains magic, see Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge in Nepal or Topas Ecolodge in Vietnam.

When to go

The lodge is open all year. From November through April the rains stay away and the volcanoes are usually sharp against blue skies; Christmas and Easter week are the busiest times. May to October brings afternoon rain and greener hills, with fewer visitors. Mornings are calmest on the water, so plan boat trips early.

The longer stay

Stay four nights to explore the lake villages by boat, walk the shoreline trail and visit Chichicastenango's market. Combine it with colonial Antigua and the Maya ruins of Tikal for a two-week Guatemalan journey.