Hostería Senderos, El Chaltén, Argentina

Where it is

El Chaltén sits right on the boundary of Los Glaciares, the World Heritage national park that protects the southern ice fields, and the hotel is at the village's southern end. Most visitors fly to El Calafate, about three hours away by road, and combine the trip with the Perito Moreno Glacier.

The village is small and relaxed, full of bakeries, breweries and gear shops, and the village takes its name from an old indigenous word for Fitz Roy meaning the smoking peak, a nod to the plume of cloud that usually streams off the top.

Rooms

Rooms have plenty of warm timber, exposed beams, good beds and cosy textiles. The premium rooms have panoramic views towards the mountains and are worth the extra for the chance of waking to Fitz Roy framed in the glass.

Food and the rest

The restaurant serves classic Argentine dishes, from steak and Patagonian lamb to hearty soups, with a good choice of Argentine wines, just what you want after a long walk. The lounge, with its log fire, is the place to plan tomorrow's route. There is no spa or pool; the trails are the point, and several start within walking distance.

The moment

The walk to Laguna de los Tres, with a steep final climb rewarded by the granite towers of Fitz Roy rising straight from a glacial lake, then back to the fire and a glass of Malbec.

Why we chose it

Senderos offers comfort, warmth and good food at the foot of some of the most spectacular walks on earth, for a fraction of the cost of the region's luxury lodges. The final climb to Laguna de los Tres is tough, but easier walks to Laguna Capri and viewpoints suit all fit walkers.

Combine it with Awasi Patagonia across the border in Chile for a Patagonian grand tour.

When to go

The hotel is open roughly from October to April. December to February is high summer, with the longest days, the warmest weather and the most walkers. November and March are the sweet spots for value and fewer people, and from March the southern beech forests turn red and gold. Patagonian wind and weather change fast in any season.

The longer stay

Allow at least four nights so that one bad-weather day does not cost you Fitz Roy. Add El Calafate and the Perito Moreno Glacier, then cross to Torres del Paine in Chile, for two to three weeks in Patagonia.