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Destination Traveller

Greece

Santorini

The caldera is everything they say it is: a drowned volcano ringed by white villages that seem to spill over the cliff edge. Come for the views, stay for the wine, and time your visit to miss the crowds.

Photo: Unsplash

Why go

Santorini has two great gifts: the view across the caldera, best from the clifftop villages of Oia, Imerovigli and Firostefani, and its wine, made from vines grown in a way found nowhere else. Add Akrotiri, a Bronze Age town preserved under volcanic ash, and a food scene that ranges from simple tavernas to some of the best restaurants in the Aegean.

The island at a glance

The caldera rim, from Fira to Oia, holds the cave hotels and famous sunsets. The flatter east and south, around Pyrgos, Megalochori and Emporio, are where the vineyards and old villages are. The volcanic beaches of Perissa, Kamari and Red Beach are dark sand and pebble rather than white sand.

Best for

Wine, views and a special-occasion trip. Santorini is not the island for beach life or quiet in high summer, but it is unforgettable for a few nights, especially in spring or late autumn.

Eat and drink

The island's PDO wines are the stars: dry Santorini Assyrtiko, the oak-aged Nykteri and Vinsanto, a sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes. The vines are coiled into low baskets called kouloura to shelter the grapes from wind. Try tomatokeftedes made with the local cherry tomatoes and creamy yellow fava, both protected local products, and book a tasting at one of the island's wineries around Pyrgos or Megalochori.

When to go

April, May and late October. Summer brings the most cruise passengers, and Greece now charges cruise visitors a fee to land on Santorini, highest from June to September. Sunset at Oia is crowded all year; watch it from Imerovigli or a winery terrace instead.

Getting there

Direct flights from the UK run in season, with year-round connections via Athens. Fast ferries link Santorini with Piraeus and the other Cyclades, including Naxos, Mykonos and Milos.

Where to stay

A cave suite on the caldera rim is the classic choice, but expect steps. For more space and a quieter mood, look at the villages of Pyrgos and Megalochori, among the vineyards and minutes from the caldera by car.

Don't miss

A wine tasting at sunset; the archaeological site of Akrotiri; the clifftop path from Fira to Oia, about three hours on foot, early in the morning; a boat trip into the caldera and around the volcanic islets.

Questions

What wine is Santorini known for?

Assyrtiko, grown in basket-shaped kouloura vines. The island's PDO wines include dry Santorini, the oak-aged Nykteri and sweet Vinsanto.

Is Santorini good for beaches?

Not especially. The beaches are dark volcanic sand and pebble; come for the views and wine rather than the swimming.

When is Santorini quietest?

April, early May and late October, when cruise traffic is lighter and the cruise landing fee is lower.

How long should I stay?

Three or four nights is ideal, combined with a quieter island such as Naxos or Milos.

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