Greece
Naxos
Naxos is the Cycladic island that still feels like a working island: green valleys, marble villages, long sandy beaches and a food culture built on its own cheese, potatoes and citron liqueur.
Why go
The largest of the Cyclades, Naxos has room to breathe. The west coast is lined with sandy beaches, the interior is a patchwork of olive groves and villages, and Mount Zas, at 1,004 metres the highest peak in the Cyclades, offers some of the best walking in the Aegean. Its farms feed the island, so the food is wonderfully fresh.
The island at a glance
Naxos Town, or Chora, wraps around a Venetian castle quarter above the harbour, guarded by the Portara. South of town, the beaches of Agios Prokopios, Agia Anna and Plaka run for miles. Inland, the Tragea valley holds Halki, Filoti and the marble village of Apiranthos.
Best for
Gastronomy, quiet beaches, walking and slow travel. Naxos is our pick for travellers who want the classic Cyclades without the crowds or the prices of Mykonos and Santorini.
Eat and drink
Graviera of Naxos, a nutty cheese with PDO status, is the island's pride, along with sharp arseniko and the famous Naxian potatoes, best simply fried in olive oil. Lamb raised on mountain herbs is slow-roasted with lemon. In Halki, the Vallindras distillery has been making kitron, a liqueur from citron leaves, since 1896.
When to go
May, June and September to mid-October. The meltemi wind blows hardest in July and August, which suits kitesurfers at Mikri Vigla but can make beach days blustery.
Getting there
Fly to Athens, then take a short domestic flight to Naxos or a ferry from Piraeus, about three and a half to six hours depending on the boat. Fast ferries also link Naxos with Santorini, Mykonos and Paros.
Where to stay
A boutique hotel in Chora for evenings in the old town, or a beach hotel near Agios Prokopios or Plaka. For walkers, a village house in the Tragea valley is perfect.
Don't miss
Sunset at the Portara; the walk up Mount Zas from Filoti; the Byzantine churches of the Tragea valley; a kitron tasting in Halki; a day trip by boat to the Small Cyclades and Koufonisia.
Questions
What is Naxos famous for?
Its cheese, especially PDO graviera, its potatoes, the kitron liqueur, long sandy beaches and the Portara, the marble doorway of an unfinished temple of Apollo.
Is Naxos quieter than Mykonos and Santorini?
Yes. It is bigger, greener and more agricultural, with a calmer pace and gentler prices.
How do I get to Naxos?
Fly to Athens and take a short domestic flight, or a ferry from Piraeus.
Is Naxos good for walking?
Very. Old stone paths link the villages, and the climb up Mount Zas is a highlight.
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