Heritage Hotel Hallstatt, Austria

Where it is

The hotel stands by the boat landing in the centre of the village, inside the Hallstatt-Dachstein Salzkammergut World Heritage area. Salzburg is about an hour and a half by road. The loveliest arrival is by train: the station is on the far shore, and a little ferry carries you across the lake to the village.

Salt has been mined in the mountain above for thousands of years, and the Salzwelten salt mine tour, reached by funicular, is well worth the trip.

Rooms

Its 50-odd rooms and suites are spread across three listed buildings. Kainz House is the main one, with reception, restaurant and sauna; Stocker House is among the oldest in the village and keeps its period character, but has no lift; Seethaler House sits a short climb up the hillside with views over the lake. Every room is different, so ask for a lake view and, if you prefer a lift, for Kainz or Seethaler.

Food and the rest

The restaurant serves a generous breakfast buffet and classic Austrian cooking, with fish from the lake the thing to order. There is a sauna in the main house. Facilities are modest, but the location is everything: step out of the door and the whole village is yours.

The moment

Early morning before the first coaches, with mist lifting off the lake and the church spire reflected in still water, then coffee on the terrace as the village slowly wakes.

Why we chose it

For a fair price, you get one of Europe's most beautiful villages at its best hours. It is not a luxury hotel and the lanes are steep, but for photographers, walkers and anyone who loves old places, staying here is far better than visiting for an afternoon.

Combine it with Hotel Triglav Bled in Slovenia for a lakes-and-mountains journey, or with Salzburg's music and baroque streets.

When to go

The hotel is open all year. Summer and the school holidays are the busiest times, with day-trippers filling the village. Late autumn and winter are far quieter and usually cheaper, and Hallstatt under snow, with the Christmas market lit up, is pure magic. Late spring, before the summer rush, is another good window.

The longer stay

Stay two or three nights: one for the village, one for the salt mine and the Five Fingers viewing platform on the Dachstein, and one for walks along the lake. Add Salzburg and the Wolfgangsee for a relaxed week in the Salzkammergut.