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Norway: A Northern Lights Coastal Voyage

Sail north along Norway's coast in winter, past snow-covered fjords and fishing villages, with the aurora dancing overhead. Finish in Tromsø, the capital of the Arctic, for husky sledding and a last night under the lights.

The trip

The Coastal Express has sailed between Bergen and Kirkenes since 1893, calling at dozens of ports along the way. In winter it is one of the best ways to see the Northern Lights: away from city lights, moving north every night, with a warm cabin a few steps away. The scenery in the blue Arctic twilight is just as memorable.

The route

Spend two nights in Bergen, then sail north for six nights through the Lofoten Islands, past Tromsø and round the North Cape to Kirkenes near the Russian border. Spend a night at Kirkenes, then fly to Tromsø for three nights before heading home. For Hurtigruten's Northern Lights Promise, choose the full 12-day round voyage instead.

Day by day

The ship calls at ports day and night; longer stops allow excursions such as husky rides, the North Cape and Arctic cathedral concerts.

  1. Days 1-2

    Bergen

    Arrive and explore the Hanseatic wharf of Bryggen, the fish market and the funicular up Mount Fløyen.

    Stay Hotel in Bergen

    Travel Airport transfer, about 30 minutes

  2. Days 3-8

    The Coastal Express

    North past the Art Nouveau town of Ålesund, Trondheim's cathedral, the Arctic Circle and the Lofoten Islands, to Tromsø and the North Cape. Aurora alerts on board at night.

    Stay Ship's cabin

    Travel Sailing north, six nights

  3. Day 9

    Kirkenes

    Husky sledding, king crab safari on the fjord, and a night in the Snowhotel or a lodge.

    Stay Hotel in Kirkenes

    Travel Arrive by ship

  4. Days 10-12

    Tromsø

    The Arctic Cathedral, the cable car, a reindeer camp with Sámi hosts and a minibus chase inland to find clear skies for the aurora.

    Stay Hotel in Tromsø

    Travel Flight via Oslo or direct, about 1 hour 30 minutes

  5. Day 13

    Home

    Fly home from Tromsø.

    Stay Flight home

    Travel Flights via Oslo

When to go

The aurora season runs from late September to late March. December and January are darkest, with only a couple of hours of twilight; February and March bring more daylight, more snow and often clearer skies. The lights are never guaranteed, but a week in the Arctic gives you excellent odds.

Where to stay

Most nights are aboard; choose an outside cabin or suite with a window. On land, Norway's hotels are excellent but expensive. Price bands are a typical night for two sharing; expect more at peak dates.

The northern lights over Malangen Resort reflected in the fjord

Featured stay

Malangen Resort

Malangen, near Tromsø, Norway

££

Travellers who want the best chance of the northern lights with a fjord view and Arctic activities on the doorstep.

Malangen Resort sits on the shore of the Malangsfjord an hour south of Tromsø, far from city lights and right under the northern lights oval. Every room and cabin faces the fjord, there is a glass-fronted sauna and a quayside hot tub, and husky sledding, reindeer and a wilderness camp are a short walk away.

Rooms
10 hotel rooms, 20 apartments and sea-view cabins
Food
Marmælen Restaurant and pub
Best time to go
Late September to March for the aurora
A bedroom with the aurora seen through the windowMalangen Resort on the shore of the fjord from aboveThe lavvu tents of the Wilderness Camp glowing in the snow
Read our full review →

£Under £200 a night

  • Thon Hotel Bristol Bergen, Bergen

    Central and comfortable, with Norway's famous breakfast.

  • Thon Hotel Kirkenes, Kirkenes

    On the waterfront, with fjord views.

  • Scandic Ishavshotel, Tromsø

    Shaped like a ship, on the harbour.

£££200–400 a night

  • Hotel Oleana, Bergen

    A small design hotel with excellent food.

  • Clarion Hotel The Edge, Tromsø

    Modern, with a rooftop bar looking over the harbour.

  • Kirkenes Snowhotel, Kirkenes

    Ice rooms and cosy cabins, with husky rides on the doorstep.

££££400–800 a night

  • Opus XVI, Bergen

    An elegant hotel in a 1876 bank building, owned by the Grieg family.

  • Malangen ResortReviewed, Near Tromsø

    Fjordside cabins away from city lights, ideal for aurora watching.

  • Hattvika Lodge, Lofoten

    Contemporary fisherman's cabins on the water.

£££££800+ a night

  • Lyngen Lodge, Lyngen Alps

    An intimate full-board lodge on a fjord, with private guiding.

  • Manshausen, Steigen

    Glass-fronted sea cabins on a private island.

  • Expedition Suite, The Coastal Express, On board

    The ship's best suites, with private balconies or large windows.

Prefer a different style of stay? Our advisors can suggest more.

What it costs

Allow from about £3,500 per person for 13 days with an outside cabin, full board on the ship, hotels and flights within Norway, excluding international flights. With suites, lodges and private excursions, expect £8,000 or more.

Pace and fitness

Shipboard life is easy, and excursions range from gentle coach tours to husky sledding. Pavements are icy, so pack shoe grips. Temperatures on the coast are often milder than you expect, around −5°C, but inland can be much colder.

How to book

Our advisors plan this trip end to end: flights, hotels, guides and the small details that make the days easy. Tell us your dates and the style of stay you like, and we will build it around you. Speak to an advisor.

Questions

Are the Northern Lights guaranteed?

No, but Hurtigruten's Northern Lights Promise gives you a free voyage if they don't appear on a qualifying round trip of 11 days or more.

Is it very cold?

The coast is milder than you might think thanks to the Gulf Stream, often around −5°C. Pack thermal layers, a warm parka, hat and gloves.

Is the Coastal Express a cruise ship?

It is a working ship carrying cargo and local passengers as well as travellers, with comfortable cabins, a good restaurant and panoramic lounges.

Can I photograph the aurora on my phone?

Yes, most recent phones have a night mode that captures it well. Steady the phone against a rail.

The Sunday Postcard

One considered email each week: a trip, a hotel and a route worth your time.