Big trip · rail
The Canadian Rockies by Rail
Two days aboard the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver into the mountains, then Lake Louise, the Icefields Parkway, Jasper and Banff. Turquoise lakes, glaciers, elk and bears, with grand railway hotels along the way.
The trip
The Rocky Mountaineer's First Passage to the West route follows the historic railway from the Pacific into the Rockies, by daylight only, so you miss nothing. It runs from April to October with two classes; GoldLeaf, with its glass-domed upper deck and dining room, is worth the extra. Add a few days in the national parks and you have one of the world's great journeys.
The route
Start with three nights in Vancouver. Board the train for two days, with an overnight in Kamloops, to Lake Louise. After two nights there, drive the Icefields Parkway to Jasper, then return along it to Banff before flying home from Calgary. Twelve days is a comfortable length.
Day by day
Hotels and luggage on the train days are arranged by Rocky Mountaineer; your cases go straight to your next hotel.
Days 1-3
Vancouver
Stanley Park, Granville Island market, Gastown and a seaplane or ferry trip to Victoria on Vancouver Island.
Stay Hotel in Vancouver
Travel Airport transfer, about 30 minutes
Days 4-5
Rocky Mountaineer
Through the Fraser Canyon to Kamloops, then over the Rogers Pass and through the Spiral Tunnels into the Rockies.
Stay Hotel in Kamloops (night 4)
Travel Two days by train in daylight
Days 5-6
Lake Louise
Lake Louise at dawn, the tea house walk, Moraine Lake and Yoho's Emerald Lake.
Stay Hotel at Lake Louise
Travel Arrive by train
Days 7-9
Icefields Parkway and Jasper
Peyto Lake, the Columbia Icefield and Athabasca Falls on the way north. Maligne Lake cruise to Spirit Island and dark-sky stargazing.
Stay Lodge in Jasper
Travel Drive, about 4 hours with stops
Days 10-11
Banff
Back down the Parkway to Banff: the gondola, hot springs, Lake Minnewanka and the town's restaurants.
Stay Hotel in Banff
Travel Drive, about 4 hours with stops
Day 12
Calgary and home
Drive or transfer to Calgary for the flight home.
Stay Overnight flight
Travel Drive, about 1 hour 30 minutes
When to go
The train runs from mid-April to mid-October. June to mid-September is warm with all roads and trails open; July and August are busiest. Late September is beautiful, with golden larches and fewer people. Moraine Lake road usually opens in June.
Where to stay
The grand railway hotels built by the Canadian Pacific are an experience in themselves; book them early for summer. Price bands are a typical night for two sharing; expect more at peak dates.

Featured stay
Moraine Lake Lodge
Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada
££££Walkers and photographers who want Moraine Lake at dawn and dusk without the crowds, ideally in September.
By day, Moraine Lake is one of the busiest beauty spots in North America. But once the last shuttle leaves, its electric-blue water and the wall of the Valley of the Ten Peaks belong to a few dozen lodge guests.



£Under £200 a night
Lake Louise Inn, Lake Louise
Simple and comfortable in the village, a short drive to the lake.
Banff Ptarmigan Inn, Banff
Friendly, central and good value on Banff Avenue.
Mount Robson Inn, Jasper
Practical rooms at the edge of town, with hot tubs.
£££200–400 a night
Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, Vancouver
The city's classic château-style hotel, in the centre.
Pyramid Lake Lodge, Jasper
Lakeside rooms with fireplaces, just outside town.
Rimrock Resort Hotel, Banff
On the mountainside, with big views over the Bow Valley.
££££400–800 a night
Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, Lake Louise
The famous hotel on the shore of the lake; ask for a lake view.
Fairmont Banff Springs, Banff
The 'castle in the Rockies', with a spa and golf course.
Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, Jasper
Cabins and lodge rooms on the shore of Lac Beauvert.
Post Hotel & Spa, Lake Louise
A Relais & Châteaux log hotel with a legendary wine cellar.
£££££800+ a night
Moraine Lake LodgeReviewed, Banff National Park
The only hotel on the shore of Moraine Lake; open in summer.
Fairmont Gold, Chateau Lake Louise, Lake Louise
The hotel's top floors, with a private lounge and lake views.
Rosewood Hotel Georgia (suites), Vancouver
Vancouver's most elegant hotel, in a 1920s landmark.
Prefer a different style of stay? Our advisors can suggest more.
What it costs
Allow from about £6,500 per person for 12 days with SilverLeaf on the train, good hotels and car hire, excluding international flights. In GoldLeaf with the Fairmont hotels, expect £10,000 or more. Summer is the most expensive time.
Pace and fitness
The train is very easy: hosts serve meals at your seat or in the dining car, and luggage is handled for you. GoldLeaf has a lift to the upper deck. In the parks, viewpoints are a short walk from the car, and longer walks are optional.
How to book
Our advisors plan this trip end to end: flights, hotels, guides and the small details that make the days easy. Tell us your dates and the style of stay you like, and we will build it around you. Speak to an advisor.
Questions
GoldLeaf or SilverLeaf?
GoldLeaf has a glass-domed upper deck, outdoor viewing platform and a separate dining room. SilverLeaf has large windows and meals at your seat. Both are excellent; GoldLeaf is the more memorable.
Does the train run overnight?
No. It travels only in daylight, with a hotel night in Kamloops, so you see all the scenery.
Will I see bears?
Often, especially along the Icefields Parkway in early summer. Elk are almost guaranteed around Jasper and Banff.
Do I need to drive?
Not necessarily. Private drivers and coach tours cover the Parkway if you would rather sit back.
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