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Big trip · rail

The Canadian Rockies by Rail

Two days aboard the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver into the mountains, then Lake Louise, the Icefields Parkway, Jasper and Banff. Turquoise lakes, glaciers, elk and bears, with grand railway hotels along the way.

The trip

The Rocky Mountaineer's First Passage to the West route follows the historic railway from the Pacific into the Rockies, by daylight only, so you miss nothing. It runs from April to October with two classes; GoldLeaf, with its glass-domed upper deck and dining room, is worth the extra. Add a few days in the national parks and you have one of the world's great journeys.

The route

Start with three nights in Vancouver. Board the train for two days, with an overnight in Kamloops, to Lake Louise. After two nights there, drive the Icefields Parkway to Jasper, then return along it to Banff before flying home from Calgary. Twelve days is a comfortable length.

Day by day

Hotels and luggage on the train days are arranged by Rocky Mountaineer; your cases go straight to your next hotel.

  1. Days 1-3

    Vancouver

    Stanley Park, Granville Island market, Gastown and a seaplane or ferry trip to Victoria on Vancouver Island.

    Stay Hotel in Vancouver

    Travel Airport transfer, about 30 minutes

  2. Days 4-5

    Rocky Mountaineer

    Through the Fraser Canyon to Kamloops, then over the Rogers Pass and through the Spiral Tunnels into the Rockies.

    Stay Hotel in Kamloops (night 4)

    Travel Two days by train in daylight

  3. Days 5-6

    Lake Louise

    Lake Louise at dawn, the tea house walk, Moraine Lake and Yoho's Emerald Lake.

    Stay Hotel at Lake Louise

    Travel Arrive by train

  4. Days 7-9

    Icefields Parkway and Jasper

    Peyto Lake, the Columbia Icefield and Athabasca Falls on the way north. Maligne Lake cruise to Spirit Island and dark-sky stargazing.

    Stay Lodge in Jasper

    Travel Drive, about 4 hours with stops

  5. Days 10-11

    Banff

    Back down the Parkway to Banff: the gondola, hot springs, Lake Minnewanka and the town's restaurants.

    Stay Hotel in Banff

    Travel Drive, about 4 hours with stops

  6. Day 12

    Calgary and home

    Drive or transfer to Calgary for the flight home.

    Stay Overnight flight

    Travel Drive, about 1 hour 30 minutes

When to go

The train runs from mid-April to mid-October. June to mid-September is warm with all roads and trails open; July and August are busiest. Late September is beautiful, with golden larches and fewer people. Moraine Lake road usually opens in June.

Where to stay

The grand railway hotels built by the Canadian Pacific are an experience in themselves; book them early for summer. Price bands are a typical night for two sharing; expect more at peak dates.

Canoe on turquoise Moraine Lake beneath the Ten Peaks

Featured stay

Moraine Lake Lodge

Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada

££££

Walkers and photographers who want Moraine Lake at dawn and dusk without the crowds, ideally in September.

By day, Moraine Lake is one of the busiest beauty spots in North America. But once the last shuttle leaves, its electric-blue water and the wall of the Valley of the Ten Peaks belong to a few dozen lodge guests.

Wooden lodge among trees at dusk at Moraine Lake LodgeRustic bedroom with timber beams and stone fireplace at Moraine Lake LodgeCanoe paddle on Moraine Lake
Read our full review →

£Under £200 a night

  • Lake Louise Inn, Lake Louise

    Simple and comfortable in the village, a short drive to the lake.

  • Banff Ptarmigan Inn, Banff

    Friendly, central and good value on Banff Avenue.

  • Mount Robson Inn, Jasper

    Practical rooms at the edge of town, with hot tubs.

£££200–400 a night

  • Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, Vancouver

    The city's classic château-style hotel, in the centre.

  • Pyramid Lake Lodge, Jasper

    Lakeside rooms with fireplaces, just outside town.

  • Rimrock Resort Hotel, Banff

    On the mountainside, with big views over the Bow Valley.

££££400–800 a night

  • Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, Lake Louise

    The famous hotel on the shore of the lake; ask for a lake view.

  • Fairmont Banff Springs, Banff

    The 'castle in the Rockies', with a spa and golf course.

  • Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, Jasper

    Cabins and lodge rooms on the shore of Lac Beauvert.

  • Post Hotel & Spa, Lake Louise

    A Relais & Châteaux log hotel with a legendary wine cellar.

£££££800+ a night

  • Moraine Lake LodgeReviewed, Banff National Park

    The only hotel on the shore of Moraine Lake; open in summer.

  • Fairmont Gold, Chateau Lake Louise, Lake Louise

    The hotel's top floors, with a private lounge and lake views.

  • Rosewood Hotel Georgia (suites), Vancouver

    Vancouver's most elegant hotel, in a 1920s landmark.

Prefer a different style of stay? Our advisors can suggest more.

What it costs

Allow from about £6,500 per person for 12 days with SilverLeaf on the train, good hotels and car hire, excluding international flights. In GoldLeaf with the Fairmont hotels, expect £10,000 or more. Summer is the most expensive time.

Pace and fitness

The train is very easy: hosts serve meals at your seat or in the dining car, and luggage is handled for you. GoldLeaf has a lift to the upper deck. In the parks, viewpoints are a short walk from the car, and longer walks are optional.

How to book

Our advisors plan this trip end to end: flights, hotels, guides and the small details that make the days easy. Tell us your dates and the style of stay you like, and we will build it around you. Speak to an advisor.

Questions

GoldLeaf or SilverLeaf?

GoldLeaf has a glass-domed upper deck, outdoor viewing platform and a separate dining room. SilverLeaf has large windows and meals at your seat. Both are excellent; GoldLeaf is the more memorable.

Does the train run overnight?

No. It travels only in daylight, with a hotel night in Kamloops, so you see all the scenery.

Will I see bears?

Often, especially along the Icefields Parkway in early summer. Elk are almost guaranteed around Jasper and Banff.

Do I need to drive?

Not necessarily. Private drivers and coach tours cover the Parkway if you would rather sit back.

The Sunday Postcard

One considered email each week: a trip, a hotel and a route worth your time.