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Destination Traveller

Big trip · culture

The Amalfi Coast in the Shoulder Season

Positano's pastel houses tumbling to the sea, lemon groves, Ravello's gardens and lunch on a terrace above the water. Visit in spring or autumn and you get the beauty without the summer crush.

The trip

In July and August the Amalfi Coast is gridlocked and hot. In April, May, late September and October it is a different place: warm days, quiet roads, swimmable sea in autumn and the gardens in flower in spring. This trip uses three bases so you can explore by boat and car without long drives.

The route

Fly into Naples and transfer to Sorrento for three nights, with days at Pompeii and on Capri. Move to Positano for three nights, then up to Ravello for three, high above the coast. Return to Naples for the flight home. Use boats between towns where you can; they are faster and more beautiful than the road.

Day by day

A private driver for the transfers and one day of touring makes the coast road a pleasure rather than a chore.

  1. Days 1-3

    Sorrento

    A guided morning at Pompeii, a boat day to Capri and the Blue Grotto, and sunset over the Bay of Naples.

    Stay Hotel in Sorrento

    Travel Private transfer from Naples, about 1 hour 15 minutes

  2. Days 4-6

    Positano

    Beach lunches, a boat to the fishing village of Nerano, and the Path of the Gods walk from Bomerano for the strong-legged.

    Stay Hotel in Positano

    Travel Private transfer, about 45 minutes

  3. Days 7-9

    Ravello

    The gardens of Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone, Amalfi's cathedral, a cooking class with local lemons and a concert if one is on.

    Stay Hotel in Ravello

    Travel Boat to Amalfi, then car, about 1 hour

  4. Day 10

    Naples and home

    Transfer to Naples airport, or stay a night to see the city's archaeological museum and eat its pizza.

    Stay Hotel or flight home

    Travel Private transfer, about 1 hour 30 minutes

When to go

April to early June and mid-September to October are best. Spring brings flowers and fresher days; autumn has the warmest sea. Many hotels close from November to March, so check dates. Easter and Italian holidays in late April and early June are busy.

Where to stay

Book a sea-view room wherever you stay; on this coast it makes the trip. Many hotels are reached by steps, so ask about access. Price bands are a typical night for two sharing; expect more at peak dates.

Positano's houses and church dome seen from Le Sirenuse

Featured stay

Le Sirenuse

Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy

££££

Couples who want the quintessential Positano view in a family-run grand hotel.

Le Sirenuse is the hotel that defines Positano: an 18th-century villa turned hotel by the Sersale family in 1951, still run by them today, and looking straight across the town's tumbling houses and majolica-domed church to the sea. It is colourful, warm and glamorous, and in spring or autumn it is simply magical.

Rooms
58 rooms and suites, most with sea-view terraces
Food
La Sponda, Aldo's, Pool Bar and Franco's Bar
Best time to go
April to early June, mid-September to October
A junior suite with patterned bedhead and lampsLa Sponda restaurant with greenery and the sea beyondA terrace above Positano's bay
Read our full review →

£Under £200 a night

  • Hotel Il Nido, Sorrento

    Family-run, with a terrace looking over the bay to Vesuvius.

  • Hotel Pupetto, Positano

    On Fornillo beach, the quieter side of Positano.

  • Hotel Toro, Ravello

    A simple, charming inn in a garden off the main square.

£££200–400 a night

  • Hotel Palazzo Murat, Positano

    An 18th-century palazzo with a courtyard garden in the centre of town.

  • Hotel Marincanto, Positano

    Sea-view rooms and a pool on the cliff.

  • Grand Hotel Ambasciatori, Sorrento

    Clifftop gardens and a private sea platform.

££££400–800 a night

  • Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, Sorrento

    A grand family-owned hotel with gardens above the harbour.

  • Hotel Santa Caterina, Amalfi

    A cliffside classic with a lift down to its own sea pool.

  • Hotel Villa Cimbrone, Ravello

    Sleep inside the famous gardens, with the Terrace of Infinity at dawn.

£££££800+ a night

  • Le SirenuseReviewed, Positano

    The coast's most famous hotel, all colour and terraces.

  • Il San Pietro di Positano, Positano

    Built into the cliff, with a lift to its private beach.

  • Belmond Hotel Caruso, Ravello

    An 11th-century palace with an infinity pool above the sea.

Prefer a different style of stay? Our advisors can suggest more.

What it costs

Allow from about £4,000 per person for 10 days with good hotels, private transfers and a boat day, excluding flights. With the top hotels, expect £9,000 or more. Shoulder-season rates are noticeably lower than in summer.

Pace and fitness

The coast is vertical: expect steps everywhere, especially in Positano and Ravello. Choose hotels with lifts and road access if steps are a concern, and use boats and taxis rather than walking between beaches.

How to book

Our advisors plan this trip end to end: flights, hotels, guides and the small details that make the days easy. Tell us your dates and the style of stay you like, and we will build it around you. Speak to an advisor.

Questions

Should I hire a car?

No. Parking is scarce and the road is narrow. Use private drivers, ferries and taxis.

Which is the best base?

Positano for glamour and beach life, Ravello for peace and views, Sorrento for easy access to Pompeii and Capri.

Is the sea warm enough in spring?

Bracing in April, pleasant by June. Late September and October are best for swimming.

Are hotels open all year?

Many close from November to March. The shoulder season is when they are open but quieter.

The Sunday Postcard

One considered email each week: a trip, a hotel and a route worth your time.